Archive for July, 2011

Eggs

July 31, 2011

I started eating eggs about six months ago.

Since I was a kid, I hated the way eggs smelled while cooking.  Cooked eggs give off an odor that is a raw expression of heated animal content.  Burning sacrifice of animal embryo.  I always found it totally unappetizing.

A few years ago, I started eating some of the terrible-smelling cheese that some people eat.  I think it began at a landmark meal Silkworm ate at Trattoria del Passatore in Santarcangelo d’Romagna.  They served us a cheese platter that had some truly abominable odor to it.  Everyone else said it was great, so I ate some of it, and sure enough, it was great.

Anyway, I started wondering at some point if a similar taste/odor disconnect existed with eggs.  I didn’t even mind the way they smelled once they were actually cooked, so….Like most egg neophytes, I started with scrambled, then over hard, then over easy, then sunny-side up.

Turns out I like them any old way.  I feel both stupid and pleased, which isn’t such a bad way to feel.

Near as I can tell, the most remarkable thing about the egg is that it can be infused completely with whatever flavor profile you want.  Just about anything, right?  Certainly sweet, certainly savory.  I’m not sure about sour.  Can you do citrus mixed with egg?  I don’t know.  I’ll have to give it a shot, I guess.  Anyway, as proteins go, you have dump rub on meat or marinate the hell out of fish to impregnate it with flavor, and that kind of infusion is nearly effortless with eggs.

Forgive me for the neophyte observances if I am stating the obvious.

Marmalade #3

July 31, 2011

Always full of surprises. For some reason.

I Can See the Rain, 1967.

Excellent YouTube comment: I first heard this at Outback Steakhouse and I haven’t forgotten it since.

The Grateful Dead, Part Three

July 26, 2011

[continued from Parts One and Two]

I don’t write too much about my line of work here.  I am obliged to avoid it, and I do so in the interests of self-preservation.

Suffice to say it’s analogous to professional gambling.  It is specialized work.  A lot of money is on the line on a regular basis, and a certain amount of catastrophic risk is assumed.  Every time something active happens, which is several times a week, we risk blowing ourselves up.

It’s legal, and there’s nothing wrong with it ethically.  But neither does it add anything substantial to the world.  Other than the good that comes from giving away some of the money made, it is at best a value-neutral proposition.

If I’m not making money, the job takes the same amount of time and effort and produces yet more stress.  And if I’m not making money, it’s hard to make the argument that it’s value-neutral.  I have no money to give away, and the inevitable preoccupation with the not-making of money sets in.  I spend less time on things that are not value-neutral, like other people, writing, reading books, and making music.  At such times, what I do for a living goes from a lucky stroke to a monumental drag.

Well, work was a monumental drag for six months.  And in this car that felt unaffordable even though it was paid off, I drove to this job every goddamn day.  I wanted nothing more than to stop thinking about everything I was thinking about.  To stop thinking.  Escape.  Move off my obsession and preoccupation and worry.  Be removed.  Remove.

Whatever we do, we do it primarily for comfort.  We do it to satisfy some need incompletely met.

We feel much of the time that comfort shouldn’t be enough.  If we mean to be worldly, versed in our environment in some substantial way, then we need to be surprised.  We need to branch out.  We need to pursue variety.

Some of us (not nearly all of us) like to be surprised, and a few of us enjoy being shocked.  Every now and then, being disgusted isn’t so bad.  But you have to be invested in discovery to value those things enough to pursue them.  Otherwise, comfort is enough.

Yet it’s hard to be to admit that you just don’t care enough to try something new.

And when both comfort and discovery are elusive, distraction is the next best thing.

Enter the illusion of variety.  The illusion of choice.  The illusion of discovery, of new territory, of invention.

The sound made by the Grateful Dead is from a limited palette.  The music is never too light, never too heavy, never too fast, never too slow.  They avoid rocking, almost carefully.  And yet, during the period in my life when I listened to this music for an hour a day, I never knew precisely what I was going to hear.

Click on the satellite radio, and I might happen on an unusual arrangement and decent guitar playing, perhaps the studio version of Playing in the Band.  Then again, it might be a live version of same, an utter mess.

It might be Casey Jones, that well-summed impression of the supreme jitters, way too high.

It might be Uncle John’s Band, more enjoyable than it deserves to be.  I know you can have tidal surging in rivers if you are close enough to the mouth, but ‘riverside/rising tide’ is still a bothersome rhyme.

It might be China Cat Sunflower.  A murky brown streak with muttering at increments.  It might be the worst version of Not Fade Away you’d ever hope to hear.

Taken as a whole, in a vacuum, it didn’t sound necessarily like the easy way out.  Which meant it didn’t feel necessarily like the easy way out for me.  Within its limited universe, it felt like a range of possibility.  It felt like an expanse of sorts.

One day, some degree of boredom and irritation set in.  A minute too much space jam.  Nothing seismic, just a sense that I needed a break from my mild obsession.

I clicked over the Garage station.  It was playing The Seeker by the Who.  The Seeker was released as a single in 1970, a few years after the Dead started plying their trade and smack in the middle of the Who’s productive period.

At its worst, the Who’s music is embarrassing and makes me angry.  At its best, it is like a fucking plane taking off.  The Seeker isn’t quite their best, but it is close enough.

It was 85 degrees outside, and in an attempt to stay connected to reality, I didn’t have the air conditioning on.  But the hairs on my arms stood up.  I turned up the radio as loud as I could stand it.  I howled the oohs with Pete, through the moonroof, like a werewolf brought out by the sun, bending them to hear my own voice diverge and then blend with his.  “I asked Timothy Leary / He couldn’t tell me either.”  “Focusing on nowhere / Investigating miles / I’m a seeker / I’m a really desperate man.”

I wasn’t distracted from the rest of my life.  I just forgot about it.  It seemed pointless in a very real way.  The Seeker didn’t feel like a bubble, an alternate reality, a blast from the past.  It felt like terra firma, the real me, now and then and later.

I just now listened to it ten times in a row.

Here they are doing it as old men.  It’s living music, outside of time despite topical reference.

The Dead, by comparison, so free by reputation, are in the end hobbled and, worse yet, intentionally so.  The sense of possibility I sensed is from a small range of potentials and, critically, in the wake of their contemporaries the Who, now felt like it.  The music is so hidebound and linked to a particular time and place, it was date-stamped the moment it came out.

It was as if I’d had my head cleaned out with a fire hose.

And that was the last time I listened to the Grateful Dead.

Ribs near-nirvana

July 13, 2011

OK, I got it. Just about.

Only had to deal with one slab tonight. Much easier proposition than six.

Large chunks of hardwood charcoal, not too many. Half a big chimney if packed in there. Equal parts applewood and hickory for dry wood, but again:  not too much.

Indirect heat with drip pan. One slab. Typical rub. Black pepper, sea salt, garlic powder, a little turbinado sugar, all ground to total dust.

Dusted slab evenly, both sides. Grill HOT, like 400 degrees F.  Only had an hour and a half to cook it.

No matter the kind of barbecue, the smoker should be smoking persistently but lightly.  Not pumping it out like a chimney. Cooking can still happen in the latter state, but prop open the smoker lid so the extra smoke leaks out the sides and does not befoul the meat with excess smoke.  When the smoke chills out, close it up again.

Slab went meat side up right on the grill over the drip pan.

Cooked it 15min or so, just until it got a little color. Did not develop deep color or char yet, given the proximity of the drip pan. The effect was almost like a cross between smoking and steaming the meat. Flipped the slab and cooked it meat side down for a while, another 15min. It loosened up here and got kind of floppy. It got damp with moisture from within the pork and also from the drip pan.

Pulled the slab once it had a little color and the moisture had steamed off.  Took off the grill and removed the drip pan.  Set up smoker for direct heat.  Rearranged the coals to apply maximum heat to the slab and get a bit more smoke out of things.

Mopped the slab very lightly on the bone side and put it right on the grill, bone side down.  Mopped the meat side.  The mop had tightened on the bone side.  Flipped slab to meat side down.  Repeat, still high heat, with light dust of rub at the end.  Cooked that way for about 30min.

The mop was Lem’s barbecue sauce (ketchup, vinegar, pineapple juice, I forget what else), some apple juice, and several teaspoons of tart cherry extract. I bought the tart cherry extract at Harvestime Foods. It was $11.99 for about 16oz, but shit, they claim it’s made from 12.5lbs of cherries. So I guess it’s worth it. I’d already made some pretty great sorbet with the cherry extract as a key ingredient, and I wanted to see how it played with pork.

Pulled the slab.  Painted it with a mixture of apple sauce and a little apricot jam, with some of the mop mixed in.  Both sides.  Wrapped it in foil, back in the smoker for 10min per side, still high heat.

Pulled the packet of foil.  Opened the foil and removed the slab.  Placed the slab right on the grill again.  Poured a little mop in the used foil to deglaze the apple sauce and apricot jam stuff, which had developed a fond.  Painted the deglazed fond back onto the slab, flipped the slab, painted the other side.  Flipped once more.  Cooked like that for maybe 15min tops.

Let the ribs cool.  Cut ‘em up and ate them.  Maybe a bit sweet.  Probably didn’t need the apricot jam or at least less of it.  Otherwise,  a more-than-happy marriage of Lem’s-style high heat barbecue and competition-style glazing and fussing about.

Probably the best ribs I’ve managed yet.  I think I understand the cut now, finally, after many years.

3rd of July

July 4, 2011

Near-disaster making ribs.  Smoking without a drip pan because I get away with it usually.  Had a pretty bad grease fire while I had the lid open spritzing them.  Pulled the ribs, took out some wood that had grease on it, let the rest burn off.

The ribs weren’t perfect.  The grease and too much early smoke gave them a hint of acridity that bugged me quite a bit, but enough else was right with them that they were salvaged.  I think Andy and Vick were the only other people who noticed.  Andy ate like a hundred of them, and everybody else seemed to like ‘em a lot, so in the end I felt like they were on the right side of terrible.

Similar near-disaster at the park.  We light off fireworks in the middle of the ballfield there.  People aren’t exactly far away, but these are pretty standard-issue fireworks, nothing artillery-grade.  One of the multi-shot rocket things must have been made towards the end of a double shift.  It didn’t have enough sand in it.  The first load knocked the firework on its side, sending subsequent loads a) into the backstop, b) right at a couple of kids, who scattered and spent the rest of the evening watching from a couple hundred yards away, and c) right at my wife, who got a burn mark in her skirt for her trouble.

We should make a little enclosure for the things next year.

 

 


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